If your uninterruptible power supply for a computer after a few years stopped holding the load after a power outage, then most likely its battery has failed. This is the most common breakdown of uninterruptible devices. The repair is extremely simple: replace the battery and forget about the problem for a few more years.
Batteries of these types are not cheap. I suggest trying to restore the battery in a very simple way.
Theory
Why does the battery lose capacity and not hold a charge? One of the reasons for the failure of this type of batteries is the drying of the cans. Therefore, we will simply need to add a little distilled water to each compartment.
Battery recovery
I do not want to falsely reassure you, but the method is not one hundred percent, since it is possible that the battery has lost capacity not due to drying out. Although any recovery is not 100% guaranteed. Therefore, we will only give the battery a chance, which is definitely worth using, since it will not require a solid effort from you, and if the restoration brings results, it will save you good money.
Diagnostics
We disassemble the uninterruptible power supply and remove the battery from it. We measure the voltage with a multimeter. If it is below 10 V, then the chances of restoring the battery are negligible, but still they are.
In a dried-up battery, the voltage usually fluctuates around 13 V, and when the load is connected, it drops almost immediately.
In my case, everything is bad - 8 V in total.
Recovery process
These batteries are non-separable and not intended for service. Therefore, the compartments of the cans are sealed with a plastic overlay, which must be pryed off with a sharp knife.
A little skill, and if you walk around the perimeter with a tip, the plate moves away.
Under it you can see six rubber caps for each compartment. These are kind of valves.
They are simply removed by hand. We take them all and put them aside.
Next, we need to find approximately 200 ml. distilled water. You can buy it at a car shop or it’s very easy to get it at home without special equipment - read this article on how to do it.
You will also need a syringe for 20 cubes. And if there is none, take any that is available.
Now everything is simple: add 15-20 ml to each compartment. distilled water. It is difficult to say the exact amount, so we pour it into the compartment and look with a flashlight so that it is almost to the top.
We visit all banks.
If you wait a little, then the water level will gradually decrease, as the water will be absorbed into the filler, which is located between the lead electrodes.
We close the holes with rubber stoppers. We connect the charger and try to charge. Of course, the battery can be immediately installed in the UPS, but who knows whether it will be charged there or not.
After an hour, turn off and check the voltage. It has grown to almost 11 V. So the battery is being restored.
We put the torn off plastic overlay on the glue applied to the same places where it was before the factory one.
The battery is assembled.
We continue to charge for another 3 hours. And repeated measurement shows that the battery is charging.
This battery is about 5 years old. Of course, she did not immediately stop holding the charge, but sagged gradually. Now it has been brought back to life and has 80% of its original capacity. I think it will last a couple more years without problems, although who knows ...
Here is a simple method that will help bring the old battery back to life. Try it yourself, and you will always have time to throw out the battery.
Surely most of us use such a useful device as an Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS). This device always comes to the rescue in situations where there is an unexpected blackout in the network, just at the moment when we are editing important documents, giving us about 15 more minutes of electricity to complete the work correctly. However, the UPS is not eternal and after a year or two, it starts to give us less and less time to complete the work with the PC. And one fine day, when the electricity is cut off again, we slowly save all the important documents, knowing that there are still about 10 minutes left, the uninterruptible power supply starts beeping frequently in a minute and turns off, leaving us at a loss.
Why does the UPS not work for the time specified in the characteristics?
It's all about the battery, which powers the PC during a power outage in the external network. Unfortunately, the battery eventually becomes unusable and loses its capacity. Why does the battery drain quickly? There can be many reasons. Intensive use (overloading) due to which the sulfation of the plates begins. Incorrect charging mechanism - often the batteries are constantly in recharging mode and the water that forms the basis of the electrolyte slowly evaporates, rendering the battery unusable.
Fortunately, the most common cause of loss of battery capacity in a UPS is the drying of the electrolyte. Why fortunately? Because it can be corrected and the battery's previous capacity restored.
You will need:
- Distilled water (not electrolyte!!!);
- Scotch;
- Syringe with a needle.
We take out the battery from the UPS.
Remove the cover and see something like this. Rubber caps that close the openings of the jars. They probably serve to relieve excess pressure, which is formed due to water vapor, hydrogen and other substances.
Remove the caps and pour distilled water into each jar. You need to make sure that the water does not flounder in the jar. When illuminating the holes with a flashlight, be careful not to pour excess water.
After pouring, we set to charge the battery (you can charge it using the uninterruptible power supply itself). If you poured water, then excess water will flow out of the cans during charging. It must be collected and poured into the sewer.
After charging, I discharged the batteries a little with a car “carry”, about half an hour, measured the residual voltage, estimated the capacity. Charged again and again discharged a little.
After these manipulations, we return the cover to its place and, using adhesive tape, glue it to the battery case. We collect the UPS.
Battery Recovery Results
In 10 minutes at a load of 110VA, the batteries (there are two of them in this UPS) were discharged to 79 percent. The program reported 29 minutes remaining until the end of the work. 29 + 10 (already elapsed minutes) = 40 minutes. Impressive result.
Based on materials from the site: habrahabr.ru
—> Near-computer —>
Battery recovery in uninterruptible power supply
I got an APC-420 uninterruptible power supply from the previous administrator, all sniffy, it was lying in the closet, among other rubbish. When he asked what was wrong with him, he said: "The battery is dead, if you need it, then order a new battery." Okay, lying around, and lying around, he doesn’t ask for food. Forgot.
About six months later, I accidentally stumbled upon him, during another fruitless attempt to restore at least some semblance of order in my sharaga. I connected it to the outlet in order to see what they say and show uninterruptible power supplies with a dead battery. He blinked his lights, squeaked something, then they called me, and they ripped off somewhere ... In general, I found him again only after a couple of months. It stands peacefully, a green light is shining, they say, everything is in order with the voltage in the network. I disconnected it from the network, it got nervous, squeaked and buzzed hard, continuing to apply voltage to a non-existent load :). After waiting 5 minutes for control, I turned it off and connected my computer through it. I tried how it behaves in the event of a power failure - everything is clear, the computer plows, issues warnings (I slobbered it with a cable over the COM port), and after 7 minutes the computer is cut down, followed by UPS.
Once, they turned off the voltage, but did not warn in advance. Nothing terrible happened, Almost everyone had UPSs, completed the work and began to wait to be turned on. I did not cut anything, I decided to check in "combat conditions" how long the equipment will last on autonomous power. Along the way, it turned out that Cisco and the TAYNET DT-128 cable momed are connected directly to the network, without any filters or uninterruptible power supplies.
- After 8 minutes, my uninterruptible power supply died, without warning, and the correct termination of the work of Windows. (This is despite the fact that I hesitated to select a cable for it - APC has at least two possible pinouts for COM cables)
- At the 15th minute, two sideboards, powered by one UPS at 700W, went crazy.
- At the 15th minute, the proxy for FreeBSD died, which had a small Back-UPS 475, and on this model a cable for communicating with a computer is not provided in principle, so the work was not completed correctly.
- At the 22nd minute, they turned on the voltage and the experiment ended. Three 24-port switches remained in operation, and a server that was powered by Smart-UPS 1500.
As a result, after some combinations and machinations with rearranging UPSs, I got the 700th smart, and FreeBSD got mine, which was kind of dead, but with an RS-232 interface (COM port) for pairing with a computer. He fought for a long time, while under the fryuha he managed to ensure that she saw him. The result of the last of the experiments was that everything ended correctly, but after turning on the power on the APC-420, the red light began to burn constantly - like the battery was dead:
The first thing that surprised me after disassembling the UPS was that the radiators on transistors are so small, I got used to the old bass breakers with ordinary transistors, and here they turned out to be field ones - as a result, the size of the radiators decreased by more than an order of magnitude:
The second thing that is already good is the power of the transformer, which, judging by the marking on it, was equal to 430W, which is even more than the nameplate power of the uninterruptible power supply unit (it is believed that more powerful uninterruptible power supplies are also produced in such a case with minor differences in the circuit and more powerful key transistors):
Another interesting thing in the design, which I had not even noticed before, is the ability to connect a network cable via Smart-UPS for additional protection. Upon closer inspection, the circuit turned out to be quite simple, and only two pairs are protected through which data is transmitted (for a telephone pair, the protection is divorced, but not soldered):
To restore the battery (12V 7.0Ah, the banks seem to be intact, none of them swelled.), A simple circuit was assembled for charging with an asymmetric current (I previously discharged it to 10.8 volts with a 21W light bulb):
Charged up to 14.8 volts, then discharged again. And so three times. The charging current was about 0.5 A. The first time it was discharged very quickly - literally in an hour. From the second call - for two with a penny, the third time I did not discharge, put it in place. When his torment was over, he worked like new. Of course, he did not become new because of this, but he worked for a long time. In a good way - three times is not enough, it was necessary to drive him away like that 5 times, he would have worked much longer (a year later a similar story happened to him, but I didn’t work there anymore, and I don’t know how everything was decided ...).
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posted: 2005-10-04, |
The vast majority of us use such an extremely useful device as an uninterruptible power supply. The quality of food is not ideal everywhere, and even the smallest problems with power supply can sometimes cost a lot. Data loss is always unpleasant, and sometimes just fatal. The device is purchased, installed under the table, connected, and its owner is fully confident that in any case, in the event of a power outage, he will have time to shut down correctly, and maybe make a backup to a USB flash drive. Time goes by, the uninterruptible power supply periodically makes itself felt - like a real watchdog, it gives a voice at the slightest deviation in the parameters of the electrical network. The owner is calm and everything is fine. But one day, an interruption does happen, and this time the UPS does not just give a voice and immediately switches from the battery to the network, this time the light was turned off for a long time. We quietly copy the files (after all, we have 15 minutes left, no less) and then the uninterruptible power supply starts beeping very often and everything turns off. How so? After all, the uninterruptible power supply was supposed to protect us from such situations, and it only gave us false confidence in our safety! Why did it happen?
It's all about batteries, from which our uninterruptible power supply feeds all our hardware when the external network is turned off. But these batteries, alas, do not last forever, they degrade, their capacity decreases, and with it the battery life. Down to zero. Unfortunately, this process is often not controlled by anyone, the owner is confident that he is protected, and at this time the battery is no longer a battery, but a dummy.
How to be, what to do and where to run?
Why do batteries degrade? There are many reasons. From intensive use, sulphation of the plates occurs, from overloads, active substances crumble, and so on. The UPS has a maintenance-free battery, but it still has electrolyte and this electrolyte is water-based. Being constantly in the buffer mode, in the mode of slow recharging, this water gradually evaporates and the electrolyte no longer performs its functions. The battery is failing. How can this be avoided? This can be avoided by the correct mechanisms for charging the battery, monitoring its characteristics, but all this is beyond our control - this is the lot of UPS manufacturers.
It so happened that the Internet in my places is only wireless, for its operation a frightening-looking antenna is installed on the roof, and to reduce signal loss in the cable, its length is minimized. The server that then distributes the Internet (another server and a switch) is installed in the attic. This little bundle needs an uninterruptible power supply. Even without taking into account data loss - running to load the server at the slightest sneeze (and they happen often in our country) - there is little pleasure. Continuity should be and preferably more. I bought a 1100VA uninterruptible power supply, not new (new one costs more than those servers) and of course I did not rely on batteries - they are often worn out. Well bought and bought. Installed, everything seems to be okay. In the UPS control panel, they cheerfully told me about almost an hour of battery life (the load was about 70 VA). I decided to check it out. Turned off the power and after two minutes, approximately, everything turned off safely. Batteries are dead. Just the case with false protection. There is nothing to do but buy new batteries. I put backup batteries (it so happened that there are batteries from the electric bike and they are inactive), 12VA each. And dead relatives lowered down.
I have heard that the electrolyte in UPS batteries often just dries out. What is not sulfation, not chipping of the plates, is the cause of the death of UPS batteries, namely the drying of the electrolyte. An attempt, as they say, is not torture. Batteries are still on the ejection, and the craving for picking did not give a chance. For my experiments, I needed:
Distilled water (Never an electrolyte!). Sold in an auto shop.
- A syringe, better with a needle - it is easier to dose with a needle. Sold in a pharmacy.
- Knife for picking, stronger.
- Adhesive tape for assembly (for aesthetes, of course, ONLY blue electrical tape should be!).
- Torch.
A lid is glued on the battery that closes the jars. I carefully pry it with a knife (for picking). I had to walk in a circle - it was glued in several places.
Under the lid - jars covered with rubber caps. These caps are probably needed to bleed water vapor, hydrogen and other things that can create excess pressure in the bank during battery operation. Such a nipple that releases gas to the outside, but does not let anything in.
The caps are not glued, just removed them by prying with a knife.
Under the caps, if you look inside the jar - nothing interesting. Absolutely. You need a flashlight to look.
I took a syringe, filled it with distilled water (The main thing is without dirt. So that everything is clean!) And poured a cube of water into each jar.
The water was safely absorbed, almost instantly. I repeated it again. Then 5 or 7 more times, I don't remember. Water should not flounder in the jar, but the jar should not “take” the water either. It is better to shine a flashlight and look. The main thing is not to spill.
After pouring water, I covered the jars with rubber caps and put the battery to charge. And I charged separately, with a large charger, but I think this is not necessary - you can simply charge it in an uninterruptible power supply. If the batteries are discharged below 10V, then it will not be possible to charge them in this way, there is evidence that such batteries can also be “rocked”, but for this it is necessary to apply high voltage to them at the initial stages (about 35V per 12V battery) with current control. Haven't tried it so I can't say for sure. I can't recommend this method either.
The first moment - if you poured water - it will return from under the lid. It must be collected with a syringe and poured into the sewer.
The second point - if you covered the jars with lids, then during the charging process the pressure in the jar rises a little and the lids will scatter all over the room with a characteristic bang. It's funny, but only once. I checked twice - the second time is no fun. I covered the lids with my own plastic lid, and put a load on it.
After charging, I discharged the batteries a little with a car “carry”, about half an hour, measured the residual voltage, estimated the capacity. Charged again and again discharged a little.
I did the same with the second battery - there are a couple of them in the uninterruptible power supply. After all, I sealed the otkovyryanye covers with adhesive tape, put the batteries in place.
The results are:
In 10 minutes at a load of 110VA, the batteries were discharged to 79 percent. The battery life changed somewhat, at the end the software spoke of almost 29 minutes + 10 already passed, almost 40 minutes. This state of affairs suits me. Enough to go and start the generator. When I have it :). And make some tea along the way. And drink it.
Based on 79%, that's 21% for 10 minutes or 47 minutes of battery life. Somewhere in the region of what the software promises.
Another calculation option is the total capacity of the batteries 12V * 7Ah * 2pcs = 168 Watt / hours. This is ideal. With a load of 110W, the charge should last for 1.5 hours. But in reality, even on new batteries, there will not be such an operating time - the discharge current is too large and the output capacity will be lower. It is difficult to say unequivocally how much the capacity has recovered, but it is very likely that up to 80 percent of the nominal one. In my opinion - not bad at all for one syringe, a can of distillate and an hour of time.
The moral of this fable is this:
- Check the battery life periodically. They can put a pig on you at the most unpleasant moment.
- At your own peril and risk, even battered batteries can be restored with little bloodshed. But no, you always have time to buy new ones.
Article taken from the site geektimes.ru
Uninterruptible power supplies are undoubtedly a necessary addition to any workstation, and the battery is the main working element of an uninterruptible power supply.
Unfortunately, UPS batteries have a very short life span and new batteries are very expensive. Consider how you can increase battery life.
New battery life
From prolonged operation, the working fluid of the battery (solution of sulfuric acid) gradually dries up, as a result of which the capacity of the battery tends to zero. The easiest and most effective way to prolong battery life is to monitor the level of electrolyte in the battery.
Naturally, you will not do this all the time, but what to do when the battery is no longer charging?
Battery recovery
We will need: distilled water, a syringe, a glass tube with a diameter of about 5mm, a charger from 0.05-1.5A.
Distilled water can be purchased at a pharmacy, auto shop, or the auto supply section of any supermarket. A syringe will be needed for metered water supply. The tube should preferably be glass, because. the plastic tube may react with the battery electrolyte. As a charger, an old laptop charger will do if nothing more suitable is available.
The most common uninterruptible lead batteries have a voltage of 12 volts and a capacity of 7 AH. 12 volts at home can be found in chargers from other battery devices, such as a screwdriver. A 14 volt power supply is also suitable for charging, if there is no 12 volt one.
Recovery instructions
First you need to measure the electrolyte level. To do this, remove the plugs on the top surface of the battery.
Accumulators with two options for closing plugs are widely used - with a common plug for all
or with an individual cap for each container.
First, use a flat screwdriver or a knife to remove the plastic cover on the top of the battery.
Let's measure the electrolyte level
- Removing the rubber stopper
- Insert a glass tube the size of a ballpoint pen into the hole. The tube should rest against the bottom.
- We close the top hole of the tube with your finger and pull it out.
- the electrolyte level in the tube is equal to the level in the battery (the norm is 13-15 mm), if it is higher, then it is worth sucking out the excess electrolyte with a syringe, if it is lower, then it is time to add distilled water.
Add electrolyte
At this stage, it is necessary to achieve filling of all cells of the battery with electrolyte.
- We draw clean water into the syringe and add 5-10 ml into the battery cell until it is full
- Repeat the operation for the remaining 5 battery cells
Battery swing
Take a special charger, connect it to the battery without closing the plug. This is necessary in case there is an excess of electrolyte, it will have somewhere to flow out. First, charge and discharge the battery 3-4 times to restore capacity. Then set the current on the device for charging to 0.1A and monitor the voltage at the terminals. Do not allow the battery to boil or overheat, if necessary, reduce the charging current. Normal voltage when fully charged should be 13.9-14.5V. Then reduce the current to 0.05A and continue charging. If during the next 2 hours the voltage remains unchanged - stop charging!
To work!
Close lids. For greater reliability, stand the battery for about 12 hours. Then start operating. The battery is ready to go!